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Thread: stator replacement

  1. #1
    One Litre Duc Eater
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    stator replacement

    Anybody changed their gen 2 stator , cable to the brown connector end looks an absolute mare of a job to re route

    Anybody done it Any tips on cable route , I can't even see it on the stator casing side .

  2. #2
    One Litre Duc Eater chris13's Avatar
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    Did mine on my old gen 2, & yes an absolute pig of a job,
    I found it easier with the tank lifted up out of the way.

  3. #3
    One Litre Duc Eater
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    after much deliberation a to which stator and rec/reg to buy ,

    it was a toss up between importing a ricks motorsport stator from the usa , or an electrosport from m and p or the cheapo Chinese option on flea bay , I opted for an electrosport

    jobbie from mand p ,

    it arrived yesterday and lo and behold its made in fookin china !!! not impressed as I thought I was getting an American made part .

    I could have got the identical part from chine via e bay for half the fookin price.

    so beware everything is made in bloody china these days , its not all shite but I have a deep mistrust of the stuff from the far east.

    also the cable is about 300 mm too bleedin short too so Ive now got to extend it , something I didn't want to have to do .

    that said it is a right bastard of a job to thead the cable from the stator thru to the reg/rec .

  4. #4
    GP Champ felix's Avatar
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    If you remove the brown connector from your old stator before removing it from the bike, then fasten a bit of spare cable or rope to it and pull it through. Then, when you fit the new stator fasten the cable / pull cord to your new stator lead and pull it back through.

    The cable route from the stator goes straight up to the inside of the left frame beem , over the wiring loom and down through the V of the motor, behind the coolant tank to the rectifier.
    Some bikes have a cable tie holding the stator cable to the loom (left side of the bike just below the tank) if the cable is tight then you need to remove that tie. Easy to get at if you lift the fuel tank into the service position.

    Athena gasket for 10 off eBay.

    As for putting the stator cover back on, It's easier to get 4 long bolts (or threaded rod) cut the heads off and screw them into the engine - they act as a guide for the cover to slide in place without being pulled by the magnet. Also helps keep the gasket in place....

    Just in the process of doing mine..... again !

    Original lasted 21k, Ricks replacement lasted 12k...

    Last edited by felix; July 27th, 2018 at 02:19 AM.

  5. #5
    GP Champ felix's Avatar
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    Here you go..... couple of pics:

    This one shows the stator cover back in place (i have removed the stator & put the cover back on to keep crap out).

    Shows the " 4 Long Bolts " in place that help guide the cover into place

    The black wire is the one i "pulled through " attached to the old Stator lead - Ready to attach to the new stator lead and pull it back through the same route








    This one shows the part of the wiring loom that my stator lead was cable tied too:





    Hope this helps.....

  6. #6
    One Litre Duc Eater
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    Hi Felix , cheers for the info the pics are great .

    I should be back on the road Sunday !!!

    BTW the first PIC could be of my bike ,except I've got gold wheels and a silver clutch slave !! Lol

  7. #7
    One Litre Duc Eater
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    And the old stator looks a similar shade of burnt black too , hahaha

  8. #8
    GP Champ felix's Avatar
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    Prices for stators have shot up...

    Paid 82 for the Ricks one 3 years ago..... chuffin 166 Now...

    Grrrrr..... !

  9. #9
    One Litre Duc Eater
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    dude !! get some paint on that garage floor !!! saves a lot of sweeping up of dust n shite !!

  10. #10
    GP Champ felix's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hilift View Post
    dude !! get some paint on that garage floor !!! saves a lot of sweeping up of dust n shite !!
    Floor is that shite it wouldnt take a lick of paint.......DONT buy a Barratt House !!


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