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Thread: Aprilia Performance (Griff) Rearset Installation

  1. #1
    GP Champ Batfastard's Avatar
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    Cool Aprilia Performance (Griff) Rearset Installation

    Walk through on installing the GBMoto rearsets sold by Griff of Aprilia Performance


    The standard pegs need to come off, along with the rear brake and associated plumbing.
    When you remove the brake master cylinder remember to replace the bolts into the crankcase as they hold the covers on as well.



    You need to drill out the rear fairing bracket if you have the longer (factory) carbon belly pan - big enough to clear an M8 bolt



    Dismantle the rearset, EVERY part need rebuilding with loktite or similar



    Bolt the back plates on, they can be swapped side to side and fitted upside down if you want the pegs lower.
    The rear bellypan bracket fixes on the lowermost of the tapped holes for the rearsets. If you want to use this for the footpegs as well use a longer bolt and a locknut on the rear

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    GP Champ Batfastard's Avatar
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    Be careful dismantling the master cylinder not to damage any of the seals


    Right side built up - straight forward assembly, but bleeding it is a LONG process.
    Check out KZMille's thread on rear brakes over on AF1 for all the details.

    the brake hose will route forward over the top of the swing arm then back under in it's channel.

    You need to attach the pressure switch - goes in top of m/c - to the plug from your brake light switch. If you don't want to cannibalise the existing you can buy the plugs from Towzatronics on EBay (UK) for about 99p
    If you re-use the existing cable cut ut off to give you as much cable as possible

    I used one of the spare bobbins from under the seat (I have a Ventura Rack) to mount the reservoir on the heel plate.
    Silencer was removed to make the bleeding easier.


    There is some bollocks about return springs on the brake side to keep the lever up. TBH it doesn't need it.
    i have now ridden about 3000 miles since fitting these and I think they are the dog's danglies for the price.

  3. #3
    GP Champ Batfastard's Avatar
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    Brake side all built up.



    Left Hand side is much simpler, don't forget the thread lock on all the bits.
    Adjust the turn buckle to set the gear lever height to suit your preference.

    I actually found that the gear change is improved for neatral and no more false neutrals 5-6th

  4. #4
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    That looks HAWT mate!!!!!! Thanks for sharing. The back brake no longer fades?

  5. #5
    GP Champ Batfastard's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shovelheadwolf View Post
    That looks HAWT mate!!!!!! Thanks for sharing. The back brake no longer fades?
    I fitted them back in May, haven't had a problem with the brake since.

    I am thinking of fitting a set to Liz's bike to sort her gear change out

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    Quote Originally Posted by Batfastard View Post
    Walk through on installing the GBMoto rearsets sold by Griff of Aprilia Performance


    The standard pegs need to come off, along with the rear brake and associated plumbing.
    When you remove the brake master cylinder remember to replace the bolts into the crankcase as they hold the covers on as well.



    You need to drill out the rear fairing bracket if you have the longer (factory) carbon belly pan - big enough to clear an M8 bolt



    Dismantle the rearset, EVERY part need rebuilding with loktite or similar



    Bolt the back plates on, they can be swapped side to side and fitted upside down if you want the pegs lower.
    The rear bellypan bracket fixes on the lowermost of the tapped holes for the rearsets. If you want to use this for the footpegs as well use a longer bolt and a locknut on the rear
    have you still got the pictures I could do with a quick visual.

  7. #7
    GP Champ Batfastard's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trickymicky6 View Post
    have you still got the pictures I could do with a quick visual.
    What are you wanting to know?

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    GP Champ trickymicky6's Avatar
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    Hi I've got there in the end with assembly. Just tried bleeding brakes traditional pump & bleed method but have got nothing. Have just read through the forum post from the brake guy but now too late to have a go. Shall clear tools away & put to bed for the night. have another go tomorrow. Thanks for reposting the pics. Mine looks about right I think. Pressure switch looks to stick out a bit. Is there any real need for It. mines a new bike so wont be due for MOT for another three years.

  9. #9
    GP Champ Batfastard's Avatar
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    You do need to do the KZmille thing - hang the caliper up on the exhaust hanger etc. The Pressure switch is only needed if you want the back brake to operate the brake light.

    Just make sure EVERYTHING was locktited, I forgot a couple of bits and they vibrated off.

  10. #10
    GP Champ trickymicky6's Avatar
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    gonna have another bash tomorrow.

  11. #11
    GP Champ trickymicky6's Avatar
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    Just refreshed my memory & am going to have a go. Will let you know how I get on.

  12. #12
    Baby Twin
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    have put there on my gen 2 best thing I ever did have a back break and gear change it a lot more posative

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