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Thread: Powerwrap on tuono

  1. #1
    Löschenkohl
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    Post Powerwrap on tuono

    Since most people would not need a guide for powerwraping the tuono, i'm posting this guide for those (like myself) who just want to be sure.

    Tools needed: Sockettwrench with extensionlinks + universal joint, 12mm wrenchhead, 10mm wrenchhead, 4mm hex, a good plier.

    Materials needed: 9meters of powerwrap, 3 locking ties for 10cm Ø, 6 locking ties for 5cm Ø.

    Exhaust system on the Tuono is tricky to dismount/mount so you'll need some finger dexterity, a matt and patience. Start by dismounting the footplates which will allow you better accessability for the rear cylinder exhaust. Then move on to the front. Unscrew the two 4mm hex screws holding the bellypan that covers the oilcooler. Let the bellypan drop on a towel(so it doesn't get scratched). Now, under the bikinifairing two brakelinies passes through a plasticplate. Unsrew the screws holding this plate with you'r 10mm wrench. Press the plate a few inches down and start dismounting the coverplate for the front cylinder exhaust using the 4mm hex.

    This is the time to remove your slip-on....

    Now your all set for dismounting the entire exhaust system. Start at the rear loosening the 3 boltheads holding the rear cylinder exhaustpipe with the 12mm wrenchhead.
    When these are loose, you can with a plier remove the springlink parralel to the boge shock, and the springlink linking the exhaust system at front. With a little force pull out the exhaust mid-section out aplying a little downwards pressure. Now unscrew the 3 12mm boltheads completely and genlty guide the rear cylinder exhaust pipe through the whole in the rear swinger. Now unscrew the 3 boltheads holding the front cylinder exhaust pipe, and guide this out gently too, pulling it toward the frontwheel and twisting it 180degress.

    Now your're set for powerwraping. Secure every finished wrap on the exhaust-sections with locking ties. Wrap it tight, and with overlaping. Remeber not to wrap more than twice around the ends that fits to the cylinder outletports or you will not be able to mount it again because the boltheads will not come on due to lack of space.

    When finished wrapping, admire your work, and start mounting the system again. Before mounting, check the front cylinder for wasteoil. If greased in oil, your are possibly up for a new valvecover packing. Now be sure that you tighten the screws firmly again and cross-tightening.

    When you start up you'll notice that the exhaust sound has chanced to a slightly deeper tone, and the engine noise has somehow decreased. Depending on which wrap you have used the wrap will in short time start smoking heavily, but only for a few minutes, and then again for a few minuttes when you'll ride it first time (only for a short periode here).

    Enjoy the look, and now proceed to the guide: how to solve rearbrake problem.
    Last edited by Löschenkohl; July 12th, 2008 at 03:11 AM. Reason: mis-spelling and bad gramma;)

  2. #2
    Site Founder crashtd's Avatar
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    great post, thanks Löschenkohl

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  3. #3
    Evil Twin Moggi's Avatar
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    What is Powerwrap? Is it like a heatproof material?

  4. #4
    Superbike Twin Powley's Avatar
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    Power wrap? Is that exhaust bandage ? Spose to retain
    The heat from down pipes , why not have the pipes ceramic'ed think would look bit tatty / rat bikish with bandage me thinks.

  5. #5
    AMA Pit Boss garry's Avatar
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    ceramic coating the way forward

  6. #6
    Ash
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    So what happened to the next one, the cure for the back brake

  7. #7
    Evil Twin phatcat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ash View Post
    So what happened to the next one, the cure for the back brake
    Probably still bleeding it, or trying to get the bolts in his rearsets.

  8. #8
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    After years of cleaning, painting etc, I have concluded that prevention is better than cure.

    Give me stainless steel, copper, plastic, aluminium, basically anything other than ferrous metal based components.

    In this day and age, we have the technology to make things last a lifetime.

    It's only because we tolerate shite we get shite.

  9. #9
    Superbike Twin Dimania's Avatar
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    +1 on this

    Quote Originally Posted by OlafTuono View Post
    After years of cleaning, painting etc, I have concluded that prevention is better than cure.

    Give me stainless steel, copper, plastic, aluminium, basically anything other than ferrous metal based components.

    In this day and age, we have the technology to make things last a lifetime.

    It's only because we tolerate shite we get shite.

  10. #10
    AMA Pit Boss brooksy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OlafTuono View Post
    After years of cleaning, painting etc, I have concluded that prevention is better than cure.

    Give me stainless steel, copper, plastic, aluminium, basically anything other than ferrous metal based components.

    In this day and age, we have the technology to make things last a lifetime.

    It's only because we tolerate shite we get shite.
    OT after working in the automotive sector you know as well as most that costs are the biggest reason we get shite parts fitted to our bikes unless we want to pay through the nose for the best there is the only other option is to replace these cheaper parts with aftermarket stainless or titanium bits every time a prototype bike is seen at a bike show we all drool over them as they are fitted with the most expensive bits and bobs but when it comes to production costs have to be cut or us normal peeps cant afford to buy them

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