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Thread: Break down =(

  1. #21
    Baby Twin Shrike's Avatar
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    OK quick update, replaced the stator with one from Ricks motorsport electrics (bought from eBay), then i hard wired a Reg rec from Polaris (a SH775) 90ish.
    Lots of money and time spent on her but the charging system is sorted!

  2. #22
    Evil Twin 2nd Chldhood's Avatar
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    Well done, congrats sir!
    Thanks from Shrike

  3. #23
    Superbike Twin
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    I read on another channel a near endless list of other staters that can be used, or other bikes whoses stators can be used, along will lots of other parts that can be fitted, all much cheaper than ape parts and usually easier to obtain. Worth a look before buying at least.

  4. #24
    One Litre Duc Eater Paul D's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2nd Chldhood View Post
    Well done, congrats sir!
    I second that!
    Thanks from Shrike

  5. #25
    Baby Twin Shrike's Avatar
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    The reg rec i bought is supposedly one of the best stators you can buy for the bike, I dont want this problem re occurring so I spent some money on it. Hopefully it will last! I missed half the summer =(
    Been out a few times this winter though, almost worth the cold!
    ijscJAE.jpg

  6. #26
    GP Champ Tifa's Avatar
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    The Rick's stator has slightly thicker wire, but fewer windings.
    These in combination offer a bit more durability, and reduce the output to a more acceptable level.
    I had mine rewound by West Country Windings. They finish them very similar to the Rick's
    I specified longer tails, (about a fiver extra) so that I could route the wires a bit more sensibly.
    After the cylinder heads, that stator cover is the hottest part of the engine....no wonder they fail so easily!

  7. #27
    Baby Twin DAB100's Avatar
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    Hi gents, on my second stator on a gen2 2007, replaced the regulator with one of these, not much modification required, had no probs since...IMG_1155.jpg

  8. #28
    Baby Twin Daveish's Avatar
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    Very interesting reading. Thanks to all for sharing. As I have a 2008 registered Gen2 Tuono. From what engine number was this problem solved? Thanks
    Sorry you guys had to break down to solve this

  9. #29
    GP Champ felix's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daveish View Post
    Very interesting reading. Thanks to all for sharing. As I have a 2008 registered Gen2 Tuono. From what engine number was this problem solved? Thanks
    Sorry you guys had to break down to solve this
    There is a thread over on af1 that shows the engine number where the revised rotor was fitted...

    Series Regulator/Rectifier Install


  10. #30
    Baby Twin Daveish's Avatar
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    Daft question. Where is the engine number [VIN] located?

  11. #31
    AMA Pit Boss rico's Avatar
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    headstock of frame on right hand side if ah mind right

  12. #32
    Superbike Twin
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    its always worth shopping around
    Isn't the engine number on the rear of the block, just above the rear engine mount?
    Last edited by reckless; December 30th, 2016 at 03:11 AM. Reason: ?

  13. #33
    GP Champ felix's Avatar
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    Take the easy route..... just have a look at ya V5 / Reg Doc....


  14. #34
    Baby Twin Daveish's Avatar
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    Thanks to felix and the link to the AF1 site forum I have read pages of the posts. More importantly there are some very good photographs of the melted and burnt "brown" connectors.
    From one picture in particular and experiences given I think I have found the problem. I have been a qualified electrician for the past 30+ years so I know when I see burnt out connections that the cause is "overload" due to too high a current or a loose connection which causes "arcing" and therefore heat build up. As I said one picture has given me the answer. The spade connectors in this brown, plug and socket connection is the problem. The spade and its female partner connect to the wire via a crimped joint, this joint IS THE PROBLEM. Whereas most crimped connections completely circle the wire and tighten like a noose. These connections do not, they crimp like your fists making a heart with [at best] 3 points of contact to the wire. If they are badly done and loose you get heat and melted connectors and high current and stator failure. I should add at this point that. Regulator/ rectifiers do fail [ask any Honda owner] so a good aftermarket replacement is a good idea. As many people have come to the conclusion replacing these brown connectors is correct. Can I suggest that as someone else has that you just solder the wire/ metal spade connection and that should cure our "dodgy Italian electrical problem". I hope this make sense? Dave Ish
    Thanks from Shrike

  15. #35
    One Litre Duc Eater Paul D's Avatar
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    Thanks Davish. Your explanation of the brown connector problem makes perfect sense, and may explain why some bikes (e.g. Gen 1's) are less vulnerable than Gen 2's, in this area, and never have a problem! Just depends on batches of crimp connectors and especially how well crimped they are. But always worth a check in any case!

    I agree, soldering is best, but a quick solution might be just re-crimping to squeeze the cable a bit more and increase contact area.

  16. #36
    Baby Twin Daveish's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul D View Post
    Thanks Davish. Your explanation of the brown connector problem makes perfect sense, and may explain why some bikes (e.g. Gen 1's) are less vulnerable than Gen 2's, in this area, and never have a problem! Just depends on batches of crimp connectors and especially how well crimped they are. But always worth a check in any case!

    I agree, soldering is best, but a quick solution might be just re-crimping to squeeze the cable a bit more and increase contact area.
    Well I have replaced my brown connector with crimped "bullet" types [blue 2.5mm] then sleeved these with a short length of heat shrink sleeving [brown lol]

    I replaced the stock reg/ rectifier with an after/ market unit while I was at it. Happy days. Or so I thought! On run up to temp, everything was fine except for a small drip of oil dripping from the "oil sensor" ? Just to the left of the reg/ rec [single black wire on a spade connector]. I must of pulled it somehow? Is this sensor easy to replace?

  17. #37
    GP Champ felix's Avatar
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    Rico over on Tuonoworld posted this:

    OIL PRESSURE SENSOR SWITCH

    seems like a straight forward replacement - i guess you dont have to worry about the oil as it will be in the oil tank...

    btw - i f you dont have a copy of the workshop manual, PM me ya email address and i will send you a copy !



  18. #38
    Baby Twin Daveish's Avatar
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    Thanks Felix. I'll send you a PM

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