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Thread: 07 Gen 2 Tuono Does not want to play !

  1. #1
    Baby Twin
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    07 Gen 2 Tuono Does not want to play !

    Hi Everyone,
    when I recently intro`d myself I said I would no doubt be looking for help and advice and here I am, cap in hand !
    I have read through many if not all the threads that could possibly be connected to the issues I`m having and am still at a bit of a loss and could do with a few pointers if you would be so kind.
    I have an 07 Gen 2 Tuono which I purchased back in November 2015, It has 17,000 mls on the clock and for the first 5-6 weeks it ran like a swiss watch. Started first time every time, ran really well and put a huge grin on my ugly mug whenever I rode it. Then one day it decided that it didn`t love me any more and refused to start ? It was fine when I put it to sleep in the garage but a couple of days later it would not fire up. Put key in ignition, switched on, clocks would light up and cycle, could hear fuel pump prime, hit started button, engine would crank but just wouldn`t fire. Bike had plenty of fuel as I had topped it up on my way home, battery was fully charged as it was on an Optimate. So i was a bit puzzled. Had a look on here and read a few things and decided that it might not be such a bad idea to get a new battery as I had no idea how old the existing one was. Also discovered and checked the tilt switch and all seemed in order. Fully charged new battery and tried again...... again it would not fire. At this point I decided to start taking things a little more seriously and started to strip things down. I checked all the connections and earths that I could find, cleaned with WD40 contact cleaner as well as removed any signs of visible corrosion. Tried again......still cranking but would not fire ? Then I thought it may have flooded as it was being cranked so left it a week but again it would not fire. Anyway I left it a few days and over the New Year break I went into the garage to try again and hey presto turned the key hit the button and it almost fired, tried it again and it burst into life and I let it run for 10 mins switched it off and back on again and again it fired up I was still puzzled but a lot happier. I decided to keep it in its semi stripped state until I was happy that it would start up OK which it did over a period of about 3-4 weeks. Every now and then I`d go and start it, run it for 10 mins or so and it was fine. I even left it for a week without the Optimate being connected and no problem !! So I thought sod it I`ll put it back together and see how it rides....... big mistake !!!! I took it to work last Monday and on the way it was fine for the most part although it would pop and bang a little when I decelerated and would hesitate for a moment when I got back on the power. At one point it stalled when I pulled the clutch in but it fired up again straight away. I got to work, started it a couple of times during the course of the day and it was fine. When I attempted to ride home it cut out after about 2 miles and refused to start and i had to get relayed home. I have since discovered no spark at the rear cylinder and have changed the coil pack, plugs, caps and leads all with genuine replacement parts and still no spark. It appears that there is no power going to the coils. Can someone confirm where the `brown` connector is that everyone mentions is located please. Also any other handy hints, tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.
    Cheers fella`s
    Steve.

  2. #2
    One Litre Duc Eater
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    sorry to hear about your problematic steed !! The brown connector is the lead from the alternator and is situated behind the coolant bottle on the off side of the bike .
    It may well be worth checking connections under the tank for chaffing , also the kill switch connections .
    a general clean of all electrical block connectors on the near side under tank well worth a go at too , I have had probs with these in the past .
    Best of luck electrical problems can be a nightmare , some get them some don't .

  3. #3
    Baby Twin
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    Cheers @hilift,

    have already had a good look at the wiring on the n/s under the tank and cleaned the connectors as best I could. It does seem to me that the wires are a bit`crisp` and not very pliable, no doubt due to the heat of the engine, so a possible break somewhere will have to check with a meter. Kill switch appears to be OK although it would not be a bad idea to overhaul it.
    If I swapped the ECU from another bike would that function properly or would it be affected by the immobiliser Just trying to eliminate things without raiding my piggy bank unnecessarily

  4. #4
    4vr
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    Evil Twin 4vr's Avatar
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    you could check things that would stop your bike from starting like side stand, clutch switch,

  5. #5
    Baby Twin
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    Hi @4vr
    have checked the s/stand and that seems in order. Had not thought about the micro switch on the clutch ..... would that still allow it to crank albeit not fire Will have a look when I get home
    Cheers

  6. #6
    GP Champ felix's Avatar
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    Are there any fault codes stored on the dash ?

  7. #7
    Baby Twin
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    Hi @felix,
    if there are I`m not sure how to retrieve them ?
    Regards
    Steve.

  8. #8
    GP Champ felix's Avatar
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    Good write up by KB here:

    ECU Fault Codes.(Gen2)


  9. #9
    Baby Twin
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    Nice one @felix

    will check that when I get home from work. I managed to get into that part before but did not know the code to enter

    Many thanks

  10. #10
    Baby Twin
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    OK I managed to get into the dash and into the fault codes.
    Nothing showing in the ECU diagnostic
    The dasboard is showing no `Active` errors although there are 2 that have an `X`stored in the memory that have not been erased
    DSB 01
    DSB 02
    I have no idea what this relates to ?
    Any ideas anyone
    Regards
    Steve

  11. #11
    GP Champ felix's Avatar
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    From the Manual:


    Immobilizer failure: Key code read but not recognised
    • Error code: DSB 01
    Immobilizer failure: Key code not read (Key not present or transponder not working)
    • Error code: DSB 02
    Immobilizer failure: Aerial not working (Open or short-circuited)
    • Error code: DSB 03
    Immobilizer failure: Internal controller failure
    • Error code: DSB 04
    Fuel sensor failure
    • Error code: DSB 05
    The instrument panel must keep all previous errors stored in its memory. In case of fuel sensor failure,
    the relative icon on the display should flash.
    Delete errors
    This option deletes all the errors, both control unit and instrument panel errors; a further confirmation
    is requested.
    Reset service
    This function is used to reset the service interval.
    Update
    This function is used to program the instrument panel again. This screen shows the software version
    ELE SYS- 11



    Dunno how to tell if they are "old" codes or recent ones.... ??



    If you want a copy of the manual pm me ya email address...

    Last edited by felix; February 9th, 2016 at 10:58 AM.

  12. #12
    One Litre Duc Eater
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    you have a PM

  13. #13
    Baby Twin
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    Many thanks felix,
    I have PM`d you.
    Am now wondering if it is an immobiliser fault ? The bike came with two key`s ( one chipped and working, the other, not chipped ) Does anyone know what happens if you put a key into the ignition that is not recognised by the transponder / Will the dash cycle and do light show ? will engine turn over but not fire ? .............. just another thing to eliminate seeing as I have two logged immobiliser fault codes in the memory ?
    Best regards
    Steve.

  14. #14
    Baby Twin
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    Thanks hilift I have PM`d you back

  15. #15
    Baby Twin
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    Cool

    Just a bit of an update .............
    @hilift very very kindly loaned me his spare ECU ( A top man if ever there was one ! ) which was identical to mine but unfortunately it made no difference There is still no spark ! I have checked every connector I can find, including the infamous `brown` one ! Also unplugged connector from the dashboard/speedo, there were a couple of pins that had a very slight amount of corrosion, virtually nothing, I cleaned and re-assembled, but still nothing. Have read recently that the clocks can sometimes cause problems which may not be blatantly obvious is there anyone or anywhere that can get mine checked or a kind soul willing to loan me theirs just so I can eliminate another hugely expensive item.
    Would anyone happen to know what resistance there should be at the terminals of the brown plug when engine is cranking Battery is putting out 12.85v with no load. Down to around 9.8 - 10.8 when cranking Any help or advice would be most grateful.

  16. #16
    Evil Twin hs2300's Avatar
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    Do you have a spark at the front cylinder? It should still try and fire possibly run on one cylinder.
    The symptoms you suggest in your first post seem more consistent with a low fuel pressure/pump supply.
    Don't mean to offend but you stated that the bike was filled up prior to the fault we didn't put diesel in ?

    07 tuono dies low fuel

    a nasty mess

    Just trying to help
    Last edited by hs2300; March 2nd, 2016 at 01:50 PM.

  17. #17
    Baby Twin
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    Hi @hs2300,
    there is no spark at either cylinder. Deffo did not fill with diesel although I must admit that when I discovered it would not start my first thoughts WERE
    " Please don`t tell me I filled it with diesel !!!!! " because I run a diesel car I could have had a `blonde` moment so I checked the tank and also the receipt for the fuel which confirmed it for me . Also tried some `easy start` down the throttle bodies.............. nothing doing. Am totally convinced its electrical. The fact that I have had it running and then it packed up again with no spark suggested to me that it was coil, HT lead, plug cap or plug related. These have all been replaced. Next stop was ECU and as stated a very kind Tuono member ( hilift ) loaned me the use of a spare one, but again no joy

  18. #18
    One Litre Duc Eater Fugly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slottaway View Post
    Next stop was ECU and as stated a very kind Tuono member ( hilift ) loaned me the use of a spare one, but again no joy
    I may well be wrong here, but doesn't the ecu need ot be mapped to the key in order to work?

  19. #19
    One Litre Duc Eater
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    Ecu,s are swappable .... plug and play style .

    keys are coded to clock sets ,

  20. #20
    One Litre Duc Eater Fugly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hilift View Post
    Ecu,s are swappable .... plug and play style .

    keys are coded to clock sets ,
    Ah ok, thanks and apologies. Will go back to what I know best i.e. nothing

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